Rigid polyurethane thermal insulation boards feature low thermal conductivity and excellent thermal performance. At a density of 35-40 kg/m³, the thermal conductivity is only 0.018-0.024 W/(m·K), approximately half that of EPS, making it the lowest among all insulation materials. The ultra-low thermal conductivity and consistent size stability make it an ideal energy-saving material for green buildings. Utilizing advanced international and domestic polyurethane rigid foam manufacturing patent technologies, the closed-cell rate of polyurethane rigid foam plastics is high, with a uniform and stable skeletal structure of the bubble walls, ensuring no shrinkage or deformation during use. The initial thermal conductivity of rigid polyurethane materials ranges from 18.5 mW/(m·K) to 21.5 mW/(m·K), allowing for thinner walls with the same energy-saving insulation requirements as conventional materials, leading to more savings in insulation material usage and a potential increase in usable floor area by 1% to 3%. As for polyurethane thermal insulation, it is produced by the foaming machine used in polyurethane production, thus offering superior thermal insulation properties compared to materials like mineral wool and glass fiber. Phenolic thermal insulation boards, on the other hand, have relatively lower thermal insulation properties than polyurethane. Moreover, phenolic boards have higher fire resistance ratings and exceptional resistance to high temperatures. While the fire resistance rating of phenolic boards is typically B-grade and can only withstand temperatures up to 150°C, polyurethane thermal insulation boards exhibit excellent insulation properties, corrosion resistance, and moisture resistance. Phenolic boards also have excellent resistance to corrosion and aging, with a lower density and lighter weight. Additionally, these boards have excellent weather resistance, allowing for smooth construction under any weather conditions and are easy and quick to install. However, phenolic boards are not indifferent to temperature changes.
Insulation panels are to be adhered, and anchor installations can only be performed 24 hours later. Holes are drilled using a hammer drill around the edges and center of each insulation panel, with a depth of approximately 50mm into the sub-layer and 45mm for the anchor. There should be at least 6-8 anchors per square meter, with an increased number at corners and around window openings. The distance from the edge of the anchor to the window opening should be at least 50mm in concrete sub-layer and 100mm in masonry sub-layer. For panels larger than 0.1m², intermediate anchors are required for fixation. Even if panels smaller than 0.1m² are located at the edge of the sub-layer, anchors must also be added. The heads of the anchors should be slightly below the insulation panels, and the gaps should be sealed promptly with joint compound and polystyrene particles to prevent water seepage.
Bonded Polyurethane Composite Panels: First, project a reference line on the exterior structural wall to serve as the basis for controlling the vertical alignment of the corners. Then, draw a +50cm line at ±0.000 to ensure the flatness of the bonded composite panels and the rectangularity of door and window openings. Before bonding the composite panels, treat the bonding surface with an interface agent to enhance the adhesion between the polyurethane board and the wall. Additionally, apply a 5cm wide, 1cm thick adhesive on the peripheral side of each panel using a spatula. Subsequently, scrape 8 adhesive points on the same side of the composite panel, each with a diameter of about 10cm and thickness of about 10mm. The spacing between these adhesive points should be controlled at 200mm, ensuring even distribution to guarantee that the bonding area of each panel is ≥50%.
The surface crack-resistant mortar is prepared with a powder to water ratio of 1:0.25 (by weight), followed by a second mechanical mix. The mixed mortar should be protected from sunlight and wind, and the batch should be used within 2 hours. Do not add water or glue once the workable time has passed. The application of crack-resistant mortar is divided into a base and a surface layer, with the base layer being 3-4mm thick and the surface layer 1-2mm thick. Apply the surface layer after the base layer has initially set. The surface mortar should be covered with alkali-resistant fiber mesh, allowing only a slight outline of the mesh to be visible (commonly referred to as "leakage in the flower but not in the net"). Avoid constant rubbing of the surface mortar to prevent hollowing.