Goldenthread honeysuckle, courtyard community landscaping seedlings, not tolerant to water, villa and municipal ornamental, hedging seedlings

Honeysuckle, not suitable for water, villa courtyard ornamental, hedgerow, honeysuckle

Honeysuckle Cultivation Techniques: Honeysuckle is not very difficult to manage, whether planted in the ground or in pots. For pot cultivation, use general garden soil mixed with a handful of soybean cake or compound fertilizer as the base fertilizer. Before the spring sprouting, prune the plants once to encourage the sprouting of new branches and to promote the renewal of the stock. After flowering, remove the withered flowers and fruits to promote growth and improve the appearance. During the growing season, keep the soil moist but avoid waterlogging in the pots. In spring and autumn, allow more sunlight exposure. In the peak of summer, place it in a semi-shaded area and spray water to cool and increase humidity; otherwise, leaf tips may become scorched.

Honeysuckle is often used as a border planting on both sides of pathways, its blooming season showcasing a brilliant golden display that is striking and exceptionally beautiful. Propagation of honeysuckle is commonly done through division, cuttings, and sowing. Division is typically carried out in winter and spring, which is relatively easy and ensures survival. Cuttings should be taken from hard branches and are best done before the early spring buds begin to sprout, but can also be done with new shoots in June or July. Sowing is done in March or April, as the seeds are small, so a light covering of soil is recommended after sowing, and the area should be covered with grass to retain moisture. Germination usually occurs within 20 days, with a single division in the first year leading to blooming in the second year. Division should be done in February or March, and it's highly survivable. Cuttings are usually taken during the plum rain season, using tender branches as the cuttings, which should include the base. Cuttings can grow to about 20cm in the first year, and can be planted in the ground the following year. They can reach about 70cm in three years and can then be permanently planted. Sowing should be done from late March to early April. Since the seeds are small, the soil covering should be thin, just enough to cover the seeds. Otherwise, seedlings may have difficulty emerging. Keep the soil moist, and germination can be expected in about three weeks. Seedlings can be transplanted when they reach 5 to 10cm in height, and they will bloom the following year.

Morphological Features: Shrubs, 0.5-1.3 meters tall, with clumps or usually sparsely spreading branches. Stems red, with 2 (4) longitudinal ridges and flattened sides in youth, quickly becoming cylindrical; bark orange-brown. Leaves are opposite, sessile or with short petioles up to 1.5 mm long; leaf blades lanceolate to elliptic to oblong, or rarely lanceolate to ovate-triangular or ovate, 2-11.2 cm long, 1-4.1 cm wide, with acute to rounded apices, usually with small apiculate tips, base cuneate to rounded or sometimes truncate to cordate at the top, margin flat, rigid papery, upper surface green, lower surface light green but not whitish, primary and secondary veins 4-6 pairs, branching, often indistinct from midrib branches, tertiary vein network dense but not prominent, without axillary glands, with small, dot-like leaf glands.